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Stepping Into the Unknown: My Eye-Opening Journey Through 1998 Post-Soviet Ukraine
Ever wondered what life was truly like in post-Soviet Ukraine? Be prepared to have your world turned upside down!
If you want to know why Ukrainians are fighting so fiercely not to be pulled back into Russia’s orbit, look no further than the 1990s!
Picture this: It’s 1998, me standing in front of a 15-story building that looked like it had seen better days. I had only learned a few words of Russian and even less in Ukrainian. I could barely read the alphabet.
The only beauty around me was my girlfriend Anya, who took my hand and led me to the outdoor bazaar to stock up on some food.
How about a modern Supermarket?
Not in Obolon, my new neighborhood far from the center.
So there we were, walking along a narrow sidewalk on the way to the local bazaar.
Suddenly, we came upon a man who looked like he was dead, sprawled out across our path.
“Oh my God, Anya! Is he dead? We have to help him!” I said.
She just shrugged, “He’s drunk. Step over him.”
So, I did, and we went on our way.
Unfortunately, scenes like that were a little too common back then, not just downtown but in residential areas as well.
Here were 9 more harsh realities of everyday life in 1998 Post-Soviet Ukraine that would shock most Americans.
1. Never, Ever Step on a Manhole Cover!
Speaking of sidewalks, stepping on a manhole cover was like playing Russian roulette with your life. Those things disappeared faster than you could say ‘scrap metal’!
So you never knew what you were stepping on. Especially in the dark, who knows what could happen.
After a while, learning to avoid them becomes like a sixth sense.
2. Carpets on the Wall
I don’t know if they were fashionable at the time, but learning what I had about Ukrainian life, many things had a dual purpose.
For example, in the bathroom you would often see just one faucet that served both the bathroom sink as well as the bathtub.
They were connected by a swivel pipe, so you could fill the tub or wash your hands using the same faucet.
I believe the carpets on the wall had a similar function: they were exotic looking and decorative, but they also served as sound proofing.
3. Asking What Someone Does for a Living Is Rude
In the U.S., asking, ‘What do you do?’ is just small talk. In 1998 Ukraine, I learned the hard way it’s more like poking a bear. Trust me, don’t ask!
I remember asking that very question to my girlfriend’s friend’s boyfriend, and here’s exactly what happened:
“What do you do?” I asked.
He replied, “Business.”
I replied, “Business, that’s interesting. What kind of business?”
He replied, “Just business.”
I found it rather funny, so I pushed the issue and asked,
“What kind of business is ‘just business’?”
And his reply was, “None of your business.”
Needless to say, I learned early on not to ask someone what they did for a living.
4. Having a Conversation in English on the Street Can Get You Arrested
Although this is no longer the case, in the early days there were a few instances where I was talking to my girlfriend in English walking along the street and was overheard by policemen.
They then stopped us and asked me for my passport.
Thankfully, I learned early on that foreigners must always carry their passports, which contain their visas and registration.
Being without it, the police could legally detain you until someone brings your passport for you to be identified and that you had the proper registration.
Basically, it was just another excuse like many other random police stops, for a simple bribe.
If you needed a ride, you just stood on the side of the road and held out your hand.
It was like hitchhiking but without the thumb.
Drivers looking to make extra cash would stop if they were headed in your direction.
You’d tell them where you were going, they’d quote a price, and you’d negotiate.
If the price was reasonable, you’d hop in and be on your way.
Many drivers used their cars as a second job to pick up some extra money.
This informal taxi system was common in the former Soviet Union, where you could easily find a ride.
Hitchhiking was once popular in the U.S. too, until the Manson murders of the late ’60s killed it off along with Sharon Tate.
Thankfully, in the former Soviet Union, there were no Manson families, so this practice thrived, although not for free.
And who says capitalism didn’t exist in the old USSR!
It’s less common now, but you can still find it.
6. They Put Mayonnaise on Pizza
Getting a decent pizza in 1998 Kyiv was quite the challenge. Any place that did serve pizza, you could expect to find mayonnaise plopped right on top of it.
I know, it’s pretty gross.
However, if you love mayonnaise, pickled everything and fish gelatin, you’d find yourself in a culinary paradise!
7. Don’t Lean Against Any Public Wall or Hallway Surface
Many times very cheap paint is used to paint public walls and hallways.
So, if you find yourself leaning against one, you may come to find much of that cheap paint on your shirt or jacket when you walk away.
8. Only the Dead Get a Dozen Roses
It’s tradition to give someone flowers on a special occasion.
However, in Ukraine you always give an odd number of flowers, never an even number.
Even numbered flowers are only given at funerals or to the Dead.
9. Never, Ever, Forget International Women’s Day on the 8th of March!
International Women’s Day in Ukraine is a big deal. Before I moved there, I didn’t even know this holiday existed.
But let me tell you, if you forget it, you’re in for some serious trouble.
Imagine the scene: The whole town is filled with men trudging up and down streets and metro escalators, looking like they’ve been sentenced to hard labor, clutching an odd number of roses in one hand, bottles of champagne in the other.
But, don’t be fooled! The holiday might kick off as a celebration of women, with men even rolling up their sleeves to boil some Vereniki.
Though by the end of the day, it seems like the whole event was secretly orchestrated for the men to have their own party.
Why?
Well, the flowers and champagne are just for show, but once the party starts, the toasts and vodka begin to flow!
So, there you have it — 9 shocking realities of post-Soviet Ukraine that left this American wide-eyed and thrown for a loop.
Despite the oddities, those years were filled with unforgettable memories.
Just remember, never forget International Women’s Day, or you might find yourself in a world of trouble!
David Peluchette is a Premium Ghostwriter/Travel and Tech Enthusiast. When David isn’t writing he enjoys traveling, learning new languages, fitness, hiking and going on long walks (did the 550 mile Camino de Santiago, not once but twice!), cooking, eating, reading and building niche websites with WordPress.